What is "Bespoke"?
Bespoke means that we draw from scratch a pattern specifically for you and you alone. We do not take a standard-sized pattern and simply make adjustments to it.
In order to achieve long-term life, fit and comfort and best overall results, we use only the most appropriate construction methods. This means that where work is best done by hand, we do it by hand, rather than by machine. For example, we never use glued-in canvas or any other "fused" internal materials. These are all hand-attached, which obviously takes more time and skill, but provides you a garment with a fluid elasticity that is not only more comfortable, but which will over time actually mold itself to your personal physique. It also extends the life of a garment, with some of our garments being handed down to children or still in regular use after 30 years, like the jacket in the photos.
I have always aimed for a minimal structure, desiring that the garment begin to approach a second skin, or even a sweater-like fluidity, rather than something akin to "armor." The cut of our garments is also designed for comfort and ease of movement, along with an eye for timeless styling, turning something of a blind eye to "fashion."
Here, also, we strive for maximum comfort, best fit, and function, using our own made-up waistbands or other parts in order to provide necessary structure without stiffness.
We use a split-yoke construction, which provides more "give" across the shoulders. A little more time and effort, but worth it.
Our collars and cuffs are constructed in a way that provides structure, but without the usual hardness one finds in contemporary shirts. Should you require more stiffness, we can certainly add it – or you can ask for more starch, though that shortens the life of your shirt -- but we think you will be pleased with our usual result. Again, no fused fabrics.
We also shape the collar and undercollar in such a way that the one rolls securely over the other, and down onto the collar bones, without wanting to "lift up" when wearing a tie. This makes it a little more difficult to press, but we feel the practical result is well worth the additional effort.
Finally, for those of you who are "shirtsleeve" types, we suggest you try our barrel cuffs which are modeled after a working jacket sleeve. They work just as well under a jacket as the traditional cuff, but when turned up one turn they stay put, instead of wanting to flop down and get in the way – which is not the point in turning one's cuffs up in the first place.