This outfit was designed for a French Marquis at the Oklahoma Renaissance Festival. The outfit includes a doublet, trunkhose, shirt, Italian bonnet, and a cloak.
The doublet has paned shoulders and sleeves, made from purple shot gold silk (meaning the gold silk is cross woven with purple silk, so when viewed from different angles the purple shows through) lined in gold shot purple silk. The silk panels are interlined with cotton twill for stability and strength, and are held together with hand beading done with heavyweight thread.
The main body of the doublet is a purple and cream jacquard, embellished with gems in purple, gold, and clear, as well as pearls.
The sleeves are shaped to curve at the elbow, and the chevron panes follow the curve of the arm. They fasten to the doublet through the metal Fleur de Lis slides attached at the edge of the shoulder.
The doublet buttons up the front with metal Fleur de Lis buttons and cord.
The trunkhose (pants) are a deep purple silk, matching the deep purple chevron on the doublet, with embroidered panes over them. The panes are embroidered, with sections of the embroidery cut out and contrasting silks puffed through. Each pane is embellished with gems and pearls, and edged in a contrasting silk. They are backed with sturdy cotton twill.
The canions (bottoms of the pants) are the same jacquard as the body of the doublet, also embellished with gems and pearls.
The pants have a large gusset inserted into the crotch seam to give a wide range of motion.
The shirt is made from a linen jacquard, with embellishments on the collar and sleeves. Both collar and sleeves have a historically accurate ruff which does not require starching. The cuffs tie through white grommets.
The hat is an Italian bonnet, with cartridge pleating around the base of the crown, featuring three sizes of pearls on the pleating. The brim is made with plastic canvas, to give the shape and stiffness of buckram, but without melting in rain or humidity. The edge of the brim is wired, and can be shaped. The inside of the hat is adjustable for a perfect fit.
The cloak is a three quarters cloak, with a deep purple silk blend velvet, edged with pin tucked taffeta. The edging has been covered in gems. The taffeta wraps to the inside of the cloak and connects with the cream jacquard lining.